Monday, October 24, 2011

Sauvignon Blanc – Tribute to France and New Zealand

The 2012 Rugby World Cup in New Zealand has delighted many of the sport’s avid followers for the past several weeks. Host country New Zealand was crowned new champion Sunday after taking on the formidable French squad in a match in Auckland. Both teams have proven to the world that, despite different styles, they are at the top of their game. In this regard, an easy comparison can be made to French and New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs – different in style, but clearly the elite class of Sauvignon Blancs.

Although my beverage of choice for watching a Rugby match is a frothy mug of beer, the whole France vs. New Zealand finale is the perfect opportunity to explore the top producers of one of my favorite grape varieties. Like Rugby, the Sauvignon Blanc grape originated in Europe before exploding in popularity in the Southern Hemisphere. Another similarity between Rugby and Sauvignon Blanc can be found in the name of the grape itself – Sauvignon is most likely derived from the word “savage” and anybody who has ever witnessed or played Rugby can attest to the savage nature of the sport (although the adage is quite true that it tends to be played by gentlemen).

Like most famous grape varieties that are now found worldwide, the Sauvignon Blanc originated in France in the Loire valley and in Bordeaux. In both places, it still plays a pre-dominant role in the white wines of the regions. As is the case of all great French wines, the word “Sauvignon Blanc” doesn’t appear on the bottle (see “Understanding the French” for more details). In the Loire valley, this grape best manifests itself in whites labeled Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Generally speaking, both wines are bone dry with high acidity and flavors of ripe peaches and gooseberries. Pouilly-Fumétends to have a very slight smokiness and a more pronounced aroma while Sancerre tends to be more full bodied. Both have a mineral chalkiness to them that is derived from the unique soil of the Loire river valley. In Bordeaux, the Sauvignon Blanc is generally blended with Sémillon, Ugni Blanc and Muscadelle and is the major player in numerous dry whites from the Graves, Entre-Deux-Mers and Pessac-Leognan appellations. The Bordeaux versions tend to be less minerally and dry than their Loire cousins. The world famous Sauternes dessert wines are blends of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc and are among the most expensive (and delicious) desert wines in the world.

While the reds of Bordeaux are arguably the most famous, sought after red wines in the world, they would not exist if not for the Sauvignon Blanc grape. In the 18th century, a chance crossing of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc resulted in the world’s first Cabernet Sauvignon (named after both parents). Likewise, all those stellar Californian Cabernets would also not be celebrities if it weren’t for their celebrity parent (a common theme in California).

While there is no doubt that Sauvignon Blanc, like Rugby, has its origins in Europe, the beautiful island nation of New Zealand has done everything in its power to claim supremacy in both (need proof – go to www.nzwine.com where there is a link called Wine & Rugby). New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is truly an experience like none other in the wine world. The intense citrusy and mineral notes are very forward and truly define this style. Unlike the French who have a complex system for labeling wines, New Zealand screams out “Sauvignon Blanc” as loudly as it can because it knows that people are searching for it in large numbers. There are numerous great producers of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and I would recommend tasting a few to get a good idea of which ones you like the best.

Whether you like Rugby or not, I highly recommend that you try some French and New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs – they are indubitably a favorite of mine and frankly more exciting than some of the insipid whites that a lot of people are drinking today. Even if you don’t like white wine, you can celebrate this magnificent grape by asking your favorite Cabernet Sauvignon – “Who’s your daddy?”

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